The idea of going camping in January at just above freezing temperatures seemed natural to me. I loved camping and I loved the muted nature of a winter’s day. I had a very warm sleeping bag and thermals. Of course I would go camping in the winter, just as I did in the summer. Other people’s reactions led me to realise this was an unusual desire…

Luckily I’m not the only person with this apparently strange urge, and I knew that Ciaran (a friend I’d initially met in Pokhara, Nepal and since done several hikes with) would be keen. I set aside a weekend in January and messaged him but got no reply. As the weekend crept up I thought about whether I’d still go camping, alone, if Ciaran wasn’t available. I decided I would, but the idea gave me a patter of anxiety. I loved camping alone but I did still get scared once the sun had set, and knowing how long the dark period would be in January made me apprehensive. I followed up with Ciaran. Turns out he was completely keen and had immediately put the weekend in his calendar, but had just forgot to let me know. My anxiety vanished and I was incredibly excited to get back out into nature.

I chose our route. We would continue the Ridgeway trail from where I left it with Angharad on the last camping trip of the previous year. A train to Princes Risborough, walk around 20km to Watlington and the Fox and Hound pub to warm up by their fire and enjoy a pub dinner, with Watlington Hill looking promising for a wild camping spot. Another 20km to Cholsey and a train back to London. For Ciaran and I, a little shorter than we’d usually do (not quite the monstrous 40km we did on one day on the Isle of Man…) but considering it would get dark early and Ciaran wanted to get back to London in good time on Sunday, we could live with it. For tips on how to plan a wild camping hiking route, see my previous post “Want to go Wild Camping? Start here.”

The usual flow of preparation took place on Friday whilst I worked from home. I baked oat cookies during my lunch break. I raided the cupboards for supplies - pre-mixing porridge oats with chia and flax seeds, and chocolate protein powder; a sachet of cous cous; apples; homemade roasted nuts leftover from a dinner with another travel friend the previous week; coffee and a variety of teas. I packed my hiking bag with warm layers and even an electric hand warmer I found stuffed in my desk drawer. I booked the outward train. I charged my portable charger and camping light. I got frustrated when I couldn’t find my headtorch after I specifically remembered putting it away somewhere safe so I would know where it was next time I needed to use it (as is the way). On Saturday morning, I got up early, showered and did a short yoga flow. I drank my hot lemon water and enjoyed the excitement I felt. This is life. Doing things that excite you, and being present for those feelings of excitement. I ate a huge bowl of porridge and got the tube to Marylebone, leaving enough time to buy an M&S salad for lunch and a coffee for myself and hot chocolate for Ciaran. I met him on the train and the adventure began!

Disembarking in Princes Risborough, it was grey and cold and quiet. We made a slight diversion to a co-op for Ciaran to pick up a few extra supplies, including malt loaf which would prove to be a saviour later. We found the trail and began our trot along it. It was 11:30am.

The Ridgeway is a 140km trail going from Avebury to Ivinghoe Beacon, across Wiltshire and Buckinghamshire. It’s referred to as “Britain’s oldest road” as it’s been used for at least 5,000 years as a route over the high ground by travellers, herdsmen and soldiers. The path is clearly marked and weaves through the countryside, making its way through woodland and across moor, sneaking between fields in a corridor of trees, pottering down and up valleys. It’s not spectacular by any means, but when you’re aim is to just get outside and be surrounded by nature, it certainly delivers.

We walked for around 5 hours on Saturday, reaching the pub at 4:30pm. We caught each other up on our lives and settled into our favourite topic of conversation - the trips we had dreamed up recently. This included discussing the long-distance hiking trails that we wanted to do most, the countries we’d most like to cross on foot, and any other adventures we could think of. Ciaran shares this obsession with adventure more than anyone else, and I’m always excited to hear his ideas. And his response to my plans are never to dampen them, he doesn’t point out the dangers or doubt my ability to do them. Any wild idea is met with enthusiasm and it is so refreshing and enjoyable. It makes me giddy with thoughts on how beautiful the world is and how we really could go and explore any part of it. The spaces between our conversations were filled with comfortable silence and the sounds of our footsteps. Another reason I love hiking with Ciaran, we both enjoy quiet company. Space to explore inside our own heads, or fill our attention with the outside world.

Whilst we waited for the pub to start serving dinner, we laughed our way through a book giving tips on how to better live your life, and playing a hard fought round of couples (which I eventually won I must add). We both chose a steak and ale pie with mash and seasonal greens, which we demolished with great delight, whilst sat by the roaring fire and accompanied by the rather lovely pub dog. With our bellies warmed by the pie, our brains by two pints, and our skin by the fire, we adorned our jackets and pulled on our bags. The other pub goers took interest and we had a fruitful chat with one lady who offered us her farm for camping, and when we realised this was quite far in the wrong direction, gave us some good advice on where we could find a camping spot. We followed her instructions and made the short walk along a road, turning off onto Watlington Hill. We immediately lost the path and ending up using the contour lines on the map to guide us back over a small overgrown area to re-find it. The laughter slipped out as I hurried after Ciaran, the sight of him pushing through the undergrowth by torchlight being all too exciting for me. I love doing things alone, but was amazed at how fun and safe this felt just by having someone I trusted with me. We followed the path a short way until we came to the brow of the hill, then it was time to find a spot to pitch up. We pointed out different areas that looked suitable, before finding one that seemed perfect. Ciaran ran down to the other side of hill to confirm this was in fact the best spot, which it was. We quickly and seamlessly put the tent up, blowing up our roll mats and unfurling our down sleeping bag/quilt. Into the tent they were carefully laid, followed by me and then the bags, which Ciaran passed in and I positioned at the end of the tent, where our feet would go. Ciaran crawled in last. We collectively sighed and stretched out in the comfort of the tent, before finding the energy to finish getting ready for bed. I swapped my hiking clothes for thermals, and Cieran just stripped down to a tshirt (a true crazy person!). We brushed our teeth and spat the toothpaste out of the tent door, zipping it up afterwards. I was so happy to crawl into the warmth and luxury of my sleeping bag. We commented on how easy that had all been.

To lull us to sleep we played some of the audiobook I’d told Ciaran about earlier, “Walking the Himalayas” by Levison Wood. The book opens with Wood exploring Pokhara, describing the lakeside street and the vista of the mountains. He meets a fellow traveller and remarks on how you often meet other travellers you connect with completely for a day or so, and then say goodbye to perhaps never meet again, or to perhaps bump into them in another internet cafe in some far flung place. Ciaran and I had met in Pokhara, almost 2 years ago, and here we were now, listening to a podcast about Pokhara cuddled up in a tent on the Ridgeway. Life is strange and oh so beautiful.

We woke before the sun and I savoured the act of opening the tent door; of feeling the freshness on my face and the smell of the morning. Still enveloped in my sleeping bag, I sat up and looked out across the faint lines of the hill. I sleepily made a cup of tea and cradled the warmth. I was surprised at how well I’d slept, only feeling a slight twinge of cold in the morning and being completely warm the rest of the night. I lured Ciaran awake by slotting an oat biscuit under his quilt. We both got dressed back into hiking clothes, something that was less pleasant in the cold, and then packed up. By 8:30am we were making our way off the hill and back to the path. We spotted several deer on the hill ahead of us, and then a whole herd of stags ran across our path. I was able to catch it on my phone as I had this out to reply to a work email (the annoying realities of corporate law, but lucky in this instance). It was even greyer and colder today, but the hand warmer proved very useful to warm my fingers stiff from packing the tent up.

More footsteps, more crunchy leaves underfoot, more conversations about life and more silent reflection. We interacted with a run club, them passing us twice, including once whilst they ran up a huge hill. We walked along the river for one section and saw Oxford rowers training. We stopped for a brunch of porridge and coffee, only to discover the cold temperatures had killed the gas cylinder - thank god for the malt loaf! By 1pm we had made it to Cholsey and by 1:15pm we were back on the train to London. Tired, legs surprisingly fresh, a blister on one of my heels, and a revitalised love for camping. We watched a documentary about the race across the Pennine Way (the Spine) on the train, and I had a very disappointing coffee from Reading station. Soon enough we were back in Marylebone and hugging one another goodbye.

I feel like I’m often struggling with the desire to do things alone, and the desire to share the experiences with people. In this instance, I felt no fear or concern whilst camping, something which I definitely would have if I were alone. I had more fun, chatting and playing cards in the pub, than I would have alone. It was all easier with someone. But does that mean it’s ‘better’ than doing it alone? Absolutely not. It made me appreciate the continued value of doing things alone, of doing things which are challenging and uncomfortable, to build resilience and confidence and to master your own mind (as silly as that may sound). Life is about balance and variety. There is no ‘better’ option in isolation, only a ‘better’ option based on your needs in that moment, considering the experiences you have had before and will have after. If I’ve spent a lot of time adventuring alone, it may be ‘better’ for me to adventure with someone else. If I feel overwhelmed and need some quiet and space, it may be ‘better’ for me to go alone. If I feel unsure in my self, alone. If I feel like I need to talk and laugh, with someone. It’s all about listening to what you need an honouring it. Here’s to more camping, alone and with company.

On a recent date (no further details here, this is a travel blog not a dating blog, but please see a friend’s incredible substack on this exact subject matter here), my blog came up and the guy asked if I was currently writing. I explained that I didn’t write as much now that I wasn’t travelling full-time, that I wanted to write more but I didn’t know what I wanted to write about. This led into a general discussion over why we write and if writing needs to have a purpose, and it transpired that the guy also wanted to start writing. The whole conversation was lovely and importantly for you, it made me realise what I did want to write about. My friends. I loved writing observational pieces. And whilst I wasn’t constantly travelling, I was constantly observing, learning and experiencing new things, through my relationships. All of that curious and observational energy cultivated whilst travelling was being focused into my friendships (and my work, but no one wants to read about corporate law). I interrupted my date with excitement when the idea struck and (after I apologised for the interruption) we mulled over the idea of writing about people. Was it an invasion of privacy? Would the person feel like you learnt about them just to exploit it for a blog piece, rather than for a genuine interest in them? Ultimately, we realised we’d both be flattered if anyone wrote about us, and would enjoy reading it hugely. I guess human self-interest wins in the end.

All of this to say, I’m going to start writing observational pieces about people (and maybe other subjects) in between travel posts. Starting with the guests to my New Year’s Eve dinner.

Like with most of my uni friends, how I met Angharad is hazy (not because of alcohol, just because meeting a lot of people at once makes it hard to pinpoint exact interactions). I studied Biology alongside her for three years. The experience was like floating in the side wake of a steady, sure cargo ship. Unwavering in direction and unflappable against any stress. Our friendship continued in this calm, nourishing space after finishing university. Like an explosion in a quarry, unearthing something that was always there, this year I increasingly saw the wilder side of Angharad.

If you also know Angharad, you will be forgiven for assuming she’s all serene and sweet. That the glint in her eye is purely one of intelligence and charm. But in reality, it is a glint of utter wickedness and adventure. This is the part of Angharad I had the pleasure of enjoying this year. Please see below for some of these wild memories.

The 2024 Adventures of Angharad, with Meg in tow

1. On a truly perfect trip to Faro, Portugal, we visited a vineyard for wine tasting. We got a bus to the nearest town and then an uber to the vineyard. On the way back, I floated the idea of trying to hitchhike back to the town. I was aware that most of my friends were disapproving (or at least dubious) of my love of hitchhiking, so assumed Angharad would prefer not to. Without hesitation, she voiced her support for the idea. She looked at me with her doe-like eyes, full of that adventurous glint, and also trust. We both smirked and ran down to the road, sticking our thumbs out and plastering our faces with our most approachable, but not too approachable, smiles. We were picked up by one of the waitresses from the vineyard and easily made it back to the town.
2. On the same Portuguese mini-break, a man slipped Angharad his phone number on a receipt as he left the restaurant we were all eating in. Neither of us saw his face. But of course Angharad was game to not only message this mysterious man, but also meet him and a friend on the jetty to stargaze and drink sangria the following evening.
3. Beyond these larger adventure moves, Faro was filled with so many moments of wildness. We sunbathed topless, we danced in the square, we cycled around hunting for flamingos. It made me realise that whilst travelling alone means you experience a place more deeply, travelling with a friend means you experience them more deeply.
4. Staying on the travelling theme, we hired a car for a day on our summer trip to Sicily. We got the car for 24 hours, which meant we still had it the next morning, until 9am. I spoke out loud in the evening, with the idea of getting up and driving to somewhere to watch the sunrise. It was summer, so that would mean getting up disgustingly early. Of course Angharad was entirely enthusiastic about the idea, and cemented the plan. We got up in the early hours and drove in the dark to a spot on the cliffs. We hiked up to a little castle and sat quietly with the birds. The sun came up out of the sea and we both exhaled a silently held breath. Magical. And then we decided to also visit the volcano in the middle of the island, and try out the pistachio croissant from McDonalds.
5. I saw Angharad dance more this year than ever before. Mostly salsa, with us attending classes and salsa nights across the city, watching her twirl and laugh with whichever lucky person she was partnered with. But also line dancing at cowboy nights (more on this below), and a more unique style of dance called Contact Improvisation. In the latter class, Angharad was initially reserved as we moved around the room playing with our centre of gravity, but by the time we were learning how to roll across the room like trees she was as committed as the die hard hippies. That’s another quality of Angharad I really saw about this year, not just that she’s open to try anything, but when trying it she will fully commit to it. Even if afterwards she’ll kindly say that Contact Improvisation was probably a one time thing for her.
6. Angharad and I share a love of country music, which means we very much enjoy the Buck n’Bull cowboy nights at a weird faux western town in the Isle of Dogs. Angharad is an excellent line dancer it turns out, especially in her cowboy boots, and also a bucking bull rider! I was a bit nervous of going on the bucking bull, of falling off in an embarrassing manner with everyone circled around watching. Angharad showed no such concern, she was the first of us to jump on and she also managed to remain on for over 45 seconds, which was only just shy of the record. It definitely gave me the confidence to also give it a go, although I was not quite so accomplished…
7. Lots of my friends have shown interest in joining me for a wild camping trip. Only Angharad has followed through, and not once by twice! Which is especially notably seeing as on our first trip both of her shoes disintegrated and we were saved by the duct tape provided by a group of southern hemisphere fishermen. But she made sure we got back out there this year, with a beautiful two day hike across Oxfordshire. We wild camped on a rather exposed hill and when I suggested it, noting the potential concern that it might be a late night meet up spot for local ruffians, I forgot all I had learnt about Angharad this year and thought she might prefer the safety of a campsite. How wrong I was! Out came the tent poles and we were pitched in no time. Again, her eyes overflowing with excitement and trust.

This year was filled with many more memories of adventure, and also cosiness, with Angharad. Because that’s a space she also holds strongly, one of rest and vulnerability. It’s unusual for one person to hold both that space, and one of adventure. I feel desperately lucky to have Angharad as a friend, to have her to adventure with and rest with. To have earnt her trust and to continue to watch her become more confident and more accomplished by the minute!

I have unearthed just two of Iwan’s talents, although two of many I’m sure. The first was an inclination towards escape room style puzzles. I should have guessed this, after I was forced to spend a morning locked in a police van with Alex Cleere under the guise of an escape room for Izzy’s birthday one year. Usually a quiet presence in the group of our outspoken friends, Iwan migrated into the centre of the hive of activity that encircled the escape game box that was opened on New Year’s Eve last year. He rattled through the puzzles, tying together pieces of information that went right over my head. When Alex woke up from playing with the calculator app on his phone and decided he wanted to join in half way through, Iwan gave no time to this silly suggestion. We were too far in! It would be impossible to recap all we’ve uncovered so far! You idiot! Okay maybe this was what the rest of us shouted, Iwan is much too polite. But the disapproving stare said enough.

The second talent was a nifty ability to play the guitar! When we returned to Izzy’s farm after a long evening playing skittles and drinking scrumpy, I was initially nervous when a guitar appeared, thinking it would hasten my move to bed. But when Iwan and his friend started playing I was pleasantly surprised, it was actually very good!

So a secret escape room expert AND a musician. I can see why Izzy keeps him around!

Izzy is a school friend, but one that I didn’t really become close with until several years after school. I don’t have a picture in my head of what Izzy was like when we were younger, only her now as an adult (I think I can finally call us adults now we’re in our mid twenties). But the picture of her now is filled with the following: honesty, pure joy, openness, facilitator of excellent summer gatherings, a positive influence and someone I’m always excited to talk to.

Just like I love the way Tarsha talks in facts, I love the way Izzy talks in the full picture. I was recently discussing our tendencies to only talk about or write about the positives, ignoring the less ideal bits that accompany any positive experience. Izzy is single-handedly championing the art of the full picture. And she is the perfect advocate as she shows how fun it makes any story or experience. Any story is said with a smirk and leaves listeners chuckling away as they get to picture the event in full colour, from all angles, even the uglier ones.

I always leave a conversation with Izzy happier and more inspired than when I entered it. A little envious of her perfectly imperfect life filled with auditing struggles and sea swims. Excited to hear future stories of her and Iwan’s life living in a beautifully old house in Somerset. I would love all of my friends to write so I could gain a better insight into their lives, but I especially wish Izzy would. I would excitedly wait for each new piece she published, devouring it over my breakfast, or whilst on my lunch break. Enjoying all of the tiny details of a truly fun, honest life.

The first time Kieran entered my world was on the drive to Snowdonia. He wasn’t in the car, but Tarsha was driving and was telling me all about this guy she’d met at Izzy’s summer camp out. I was still desperately sad about being back home after my trip, so was very thankful for the distraction. We discussed how wonderful he seemed, but also the concerns she had that maybe they weren’t the perfect fit. It’s laughable to think about this now. I have never seen two people more perfectly matched than Tarsha and Kieran. Their whole relationship is so nourishing to see, and it is so lovely to see a friend being loved in such a complete way.

BUT when I think of Kieran, I also think about the infamous story of him attending a big work conference after just starting a new job. Of being invited onto the stage without warning and asked to share something motivational. Of him coming out with the beautifully hilarious phrase of “Nothing matters”. Of being met with a sea of taken aback faces and deciding the only way forward was to commit, and to simply repeat the phrase again, louder and with more confidence. “Nothing matters”. I can’t retell the story with the same hilarity as he can, but I think about it often when anything gets a bit much. I actually completely agree with him. I’m not sure I’d describe it as a motivational quote, but it is incredibly freeing. To realise that nothing matters, so there’s no need to stress or worry. Nothing matters so you might as well just have some fun and enjoy your silly little life. A sentiment which Kieran absolutely nails. Always a bubble of lightness and fun at any gathering. I’m glad we didn’t confine you to a tent on new year’s last year and scare you off.

N.b. I need to inform Kieran that I speak of him surprisingly often. To be specific, any time someone asks me about the best gift I’ve ever received. The answer is my secret santa gift from last year from Kieran - an apron with several hand-painted eggs rolling across it. Meg the Rolling Egg.

Thinking about the person Tarsha is now genuinely gives me goosebumps. As a school friend I’ve known her for many years. But the person she is now is the one I love the most.

I am obsessed with her love for life, her commitment to her own path, her motivation to do things she likes to do, and her ability to make her own dresses. Tarsha has always had this ability to state things about herself as fact. Let me explain. When I talk about my future, the words “maybe” “I think” “something along those lines” come up a lot. Even when I talk about something in the present, I’ll weaken the point. With Tarsha, there is none of that rubbish. She is sure, so she speaks surely. There is certainty and intention in her actions. This isn’t to say she doesn’t change her mind, she definitely does, but she does that as fact too. For example, for a period Tarsha was vegetarian. It was a fact, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that would be a life long choice due to the certainty of it all. But later, Tarsha stopped being a vegetarian, without any doubts or wobbling, this was the new fact. She doesn’t try to hide the fact that she was previously a vegetarian, why would she? She was sure then, and she’s sure now. The subject can change, but the sureness does not. This sureness covers not just her speech, but her life. She wanted to spend more time with her mum, so she lived and worked near home. She wanted to become a teacher, so she did a PGCE. She wanted to live somewhere quiet and secluded, specifically in a barn conversion on a farm, and so that’s where she lives. She wanted to do more travelling, so she spent a summer going on multiple solo trips. She wanted to be in a relationship, so she thought about the type of person she wanted to be with and did not settle for anything less.

Perhaps it is her belief that there is no such thing as a universal truth, and therefore no such thing as a fact (I’m not even sure if she believes this, I just remember a very interesting, very long conversation we had on the topic whilst on our little retreat in Cornwall with Sam), that allows her to be so factual. Because such an act lacks the weight and associated stress that it holds for the rest of us. Whilst all of our minds are cloudy and confused at this transitional age, Tarsha’s just seems so clear. Maybe she’ll disagree with this observation, but I think it holds at least some truth.

I love catching up with Tarsha and getting to see more of her certain and exciting life. I can’t wait to see the moves she makes over the next year…

Sam is my oldest friend. We’ve reached the number of years that means, statistically, we will likely be friends for life. A prediction I very much hope rings true. Having a friendship spanning your whole life has so many benefits, but one negative is that you can stop observing them as much. You fall into the familiarity of your relationship and like with a lingering smell that you stop noticing after a while, you stop seeing the minute details and changes in your friend. I give Sam and I credit for avoiding this as much as possible. Sam still observes me, he was the first to pick up on a lot of the changes I felt when I returned from travelling. And I still observe and appreciate him. I remember being brought to tears over how proud I was when we first caught up after I returned to London and he told me all about his life and work.

Instead of focusing on Sam of the now, I would like to touch on some of my most poignant memories with Sam:

1. Despite both being avid atheists, we did our silver DofE volunteering at the church in our village. Over several months we spent a few hours every other week doing odd tasks and laughing hysterically most of the time. The laughter may have come from how useless we were at DIY, spending hours trying to pick the old paint off a door with screwdrivers, or from the crazy religious fanatic who we overheard recounting a tale of when he met God on a hill in Wales, having to sprint into a back room when we couldn’t hide our belly laughs any longer, or from how beautiful I looked in a pair of googles wielding a sander as we tried to take off more old paint, this time from a metal gate.
2. Before we both went on a gifted and talented poetry residential at Kilve Court (yes, we really have always been that cool) we spent the morning playing a car game on Sam’s xbox. I used a car called the “Rat” and how useless both it was and I was left us both rolling around on the floor.
3. In an eventful 20 minutes on our travels around the balkans after our A levels: Louis and I forced Sam to shave his weird beard off, I then took a photo to show him how it looked and accidentally showed him a nude of myself instead. Sam then showered off the awful sight and the beard trimmings as Louis and I realised all of our supermarket shopping that Sam had been responsible for had disappeared, he’d left it at the beach! As we ran down to the showers to chastise him, he conveniently managed to lock himself in the shower. Having to pause our anger momentarily, we helped him slide out from underneath the cubicle and then ordered him to return to the Brexit debating crepe stand man to collect our shopping.
4. A incredibly bougie afternoon tea at Sketch with Rosaline where we indulged in caviar from the caviar man, a plethora of delightful patisseries, the infamous egg toilets, and overall spent 5 hours chatting and nibbling away like distinguished people we absolutely are not.
5. A freezeframe of Sam being busy building this very website for me (did you know we owe Meg the Rolling Egg to Sam really?) and looking up from my laptop in horror as my housemates at Finsbury Park discussed what the internet actually is. Exacerbated he sighed and shook his head, muttering that he didn’t have time to explain it right now but that, in no uncertain times, the drivel we were coming up with was completely wrong. And a more tender freezeframe of Sam dutifully explaining the basics of coding to Tarsha and I as we sat on the sofa whilst on our Cornish retreat, met with nodding heads and blank eyes.
6. Finally, as I was about to start my training contract, Sam taking to me one side to say that he didn’t think he reacted appropriately when I shared the news of getting my training contract with him years before, as he hadn’t really understood the importance of it. But that now he does, and he wanted to let me know how proud he was.

I also put these memories into ChatGPT and asked it to describe a day in the life of us as 80 year olds. Please enjoy:

At 80, you and Sam embark on a whimsical adventure that perfectly captures the spirit of your lifelong friendship. Picture this: after years of sharing laughter and heartfelt moments, you both decide to take a nostalgic trip back to your childhood village.

You start your day with a leisurely breakfast at a quaint café, reminiscing about your early days of volunteering at the church. Sam, ever the jokester, suggests you recreate the hilarious DIY disasters you once faced. With a playful glint in his eye, he proposes you tackle a paint-stripped door in the church basement—armed this time with silly costumes. You both don vibrant wigs and over-the-top aprons, igniting a wave of laughter as you fumble with tools and accidentally cover each other in paint.

Next, you visit the village green, where a small local festival is taking place. Inspired by your poetic roots, you both enter a spontaneous poetry contest, reciting pieces filled with humor and nostalgia. Your playful banter has the audience in stitches, reminding everyone of the joy of friendship. After the contest, a young couple approaches you, inspired by your camaraderie and storytelling.

As the sun sets, you stroll down to the beach, just like those chaotic days in the Balkans. While reminiscing about the infamous beard-shaving incident, Sam suddenly spots a tiny beach shack selling crepes. With a gleeful sparkle in his eyes, he challenges you to a crepe-eating contest, recalling how you once lost track of your shopping. The two of you dive into the challenge, laughter echoing as you both pile up plates of crepes, sharing exaggerated tales of your youthful antics.

As night falls, you set up a small fire on the beach. Under the stars, you both reflect on your journey, sharing stories of pride and growth. Sam, with his usual sincerity, tells you how much he cherishes your friendship, just as he did all those years ago. You both agree that even as you age, your bond remains timeless—rooted in shared laughter, support, and an unwavering appreciation for one another.

Your adventure wraps up with the two of you slowly walking back, arm in arm, discussing the next escapade you’ll undertake—because even at 80, the spirit of exploration and friendship is as vibrant as ever.

Eleanor is a truly Good friend. Capitalised Good. Good with depth and weight. She listens to your moanings and troubles and provides valuable input that makes you see it in a new light. This year saw me spend a week on holiday with Eleanor in beautiful Sicily, and then we started living together when she moved up to London and took over my previous housemate’s room. Unsurprisingly, I observed and learnt a lot more about Eleanor in these periods than I had over our tea and cake breaks at university, phone calls whilst travelling, and fleeting visits in between. Read on for some of these observations, in the form of an acrostic (naturally).

E - Energy. Bear with me here, but I’m all about people’s energies these days. (To make it worse, it stems from a conversation with a woman who had spent 8 years in an Ashram whilst we took a long walk together in rural Vietnam.) When Eleanor first moved to London, I could feel her apprehension and stress. It shocked me how strongly I felt it diffuse over me when we were in the same space. And this let me experience something really beautiful. I felt the apprehension and stress slowly disappear as she settled into London. As she found her rhythm and space within the movement of the city. I felt her excitement for London as she returned from seeing friends, or attending a cool event. I felt her content-ness after a long week, as she meal prepped a chilli on a Sunday afternoon with vegetables handpicked from the green grocers. It renewed my love of London, and my pride in her for taking on this challenge.

L - Laughter. I always knew Eleanor was funny, it’s one of the reasons we’re friends. But since living together I have noticed a markable uptick in tears caused from laughing so hard. My favourite evenings have been spent cuddled up on the sofa, laughing at how different we are in some ways, at our odd tendencies, and at our silly little lives. These conversations also leave space to talk about more vulnerable topics, which I appreciate hugely.

E - Elephant-like memory. Eleanor remembers everything, every minute detail I fling into the void and immediately forget about. She’s like a velcro board for information.

A - Arranger. You know all of those ideas you talk about with friends that then never happen? Not with Eleanor around! She is chief arranger and will make sure all of those wonderful plans come to fruition.

N - Night owl. I learnt that Eleanor is absolutely a night owl. No matter what time I arrive home from work, or sneak in after being out, she is always the last one standing. But it’s not like she lies in - I don’t know how she runs on so little sleep!

O - Organisation. Eleanor is one of those people whose brain operates on a different level (to mine anyway). She considers everything, plans everything, and is meticulous in her preparation. If she wanted to be a project manager, which it seems she has been in part recently, it would be the most smoothly run project ever seen. Sometimes I try and imagine what it must look like in Eleanor’s mind, hundreds of parallel train tracks with multiple trains of thought steaming ahead at the same time. The phrase “spinning a lot of plates” never seemed to hit so right. If her thoughts were superimposed into my head, I’m sure I would instantly overheat and collapse.

R - Running is not something Eleanor entertains, in any way. She eyes Alex (our housemate) suspiciously as he goes on yet another long run as he trains for a marathon. Her distaste for running deepens when he returns and insists on showing us his bloody foot and then lies groaning on the sofa for the rest of the evening. She does, however, LOVE walking. No day is complete without a walk. Even if it’s very late and she’s been slammed at work, she will fearlessly trot around Highbury fields, up to her eyeballs in scarves and warm layers.

I’d also like to thank Eleanor in writing for letting me ramble on about my objectively boring job, and for managing to feign some interest in the goings on of a law firm!

To mark the end of my birthday week, and Will’s Europe stint, we had a long weekend in Norway. The vision was rural cottage, hikes above the fjords, and cool swims within them.

Friday

I flew from Gatwick to Stavanger (£60 return flight!) and took an overpriced airport bus into the city. I felt the rush of being in a new place; the unfamiliar language and sights, the sun on my face, and the anticipation of the days ahead. Will was flying in from Krakow, and I met him off of the same, overpriced, airport bus. Together we explored the city, catching up on each other’s past month - Will having visited Belfast, Edinburgh, Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo and Poland. Me with the end of my time in the derivatives department at work, my birthday, and the passing of my Grandma. The city was small and cute, we loved the colourful Fargegaten street and the white panelled buildings of the old town. We ate sandwiches down at the dock. The whole city took maybe 1.5 hours to explore, so not somewhere you need long for! We went to a supermarket and gathered supplies for the weekend, then hopped on two buses (with a change at the most beautifully located bus station I have ever seen (and I’ve seen a LOT of bus stations), isolated at a crossroads on the edge of a fjord). The sun set as we raced along the edge of the water. A slight miscalculation from me meant that the bus did not drop us right outside our airbnb as hoped, but a 50 minute walk away. Suitably convinced there were no bears around, we set off along rural roads in the dark, carrying not only our luggage (both with small rucksacks, no issues there) but also all of the supermarket supplies (more of a struggle for me). We could just about make out the buildings along the road, and the fact there was a body of water right next to us. Eventually, we came to our airbnb and let ourselves in. The most perfect little cottage, sat on a plot along with a few other houses, nestled up against a fjord. I peered out of the window, excited for the view that would appear with the morning light. We unpacked the groceries, cooked up a pasta feast and collapsed into bed.

Saturday

I tiptoed downstairs with sleep still in my eyes, desperate to see the view. It was of an orchard (this region had recently started growing apples and they were everywhere now) rolling down the hill into the trees that bordered the fjord. And then fjord as far as you could see, with an island out in front, land narrowing in on either side. There were big hills and a greenhouse. I sat peering out, drinking a tea with my legs nestled up under me. Rural cottage item of the vision was confidently ticked off.

Over breakfast we finalised our hiking plan, acrobatting around the bus timetables. We caught the bus down the road to Hjelmeland and walked 1.5 hours along a road zigzagging up through forest, to get to the start of the hike (a warm up, if you will). The hike was truly beautiful. We walked along small lakes, through sparse woodland, through bogs and along boardwalks. I convinced Will to go barefoot through the bog with me, giggling at the silky mud moving through my toes and laughing as Will ended up calve deep in one patch. The final climb was up a slightly treacherous rocky section, but we emerged in one piece with a stunning view over the fjords in the direction of our little cabin. We continued along the top of this ridge, dancing between pools of water, boggy patches and impressive, canyon-like drops. We saw several sets of hikers, all women interestingly, and eventually reached the highest point marked by a cairn. We found a spot on some rocks which jutted out to have lunch (the leftover pasta in a sandwich bag and some salami sandwiches). A boat moved with such clarity through the fjord below, leaving an undisturbed rippling that spread across the width of the water. That’s the hikes above the fjords element of my vision checked off. Bellies filled with pasta and phones with pictures, we sped back down the mountain, stopping at the lake separated from the path by overgrowth, an ideal swimming spot we’d eyed up earlier. The sun peaked through the clouds and fell on the island in the centre of the water. We stripped naked and ran in, the cold a welcomed feeling to our bodies hot from the hike. The chill lit up every part of me, as a cold swim always does, and we swam over to the island, heaving ourselves up to feel the warmth of the sun on our skin. Like true nordic nymphs we stood naked on that island. Nervous about getting too cold, I lowered myself back into the lake and confirmed the water was sufficiently deep for Will to then dive in after me. Swimming back to where our clothes sat in a pile, we soaked in the sun and the cold all over again. A brief air dry and then clothes back on, we walked quickly back to the start of the hike to warm up. Beginning the cool down section (back along the road into the town) we were able to hitch a lift with some ladies who were driving that way. This meant we had time before the bus to explore Hjelmeland, climbing onto the “world’s largest Jærstol” (a chair which I then got stuck at the top of), and admiring the sauna. Back at the cabin we cooked fajitas and watched a film, exhausted from the fresh air and the insane sights of the hike.

Sunday

After a leisurely morning we strolled down to the little harbour and picked up the keys of our airbnb host’s little boat which we’d hired for the day. Yesterday’s weather was bright and crisp, in contrast, today’s was grey and moody. After an incredibly brief set of instructions, we were left to our own devices and Will expertly negotiated the boat out its parking spot and out onto open water. We zoomed down the fjord, aiming for a small channel between an island and the right perimeter. We took turns driving, the other person sat at the bow, wind in their hair, pointing out directions. We sped past gorgeous houses perched in isolation on the fjord edge. The wind blew but the clouds held the rain fast (for now). It was all going so well! Until it wasn’t… In the middle of the fjord the engine cut out. After multiple, failed attempts to restart it, including some googling to try and work out potential causes, we gave in and got out the oars. I was secretly quite happy with this turn of events. I was picturing a little rowing boat with us romantically rowing across the fjord, like in Bridget Jones. We took turns rowing, with our sights set on the opposite bank, where the small town of Fister sat. We made progress, albeit very slowly, munching on some cinnamon biscuits and laughing at the turn of events. Eventually, we got hold of the airbnb hosts who said to check there was definitely nothing stuck in the propellor. Will had already confirmed this, but I went to take a second look. On closer inspection, I thought I could in fact see something tangled up. We’d already checked that all the ropes on the back of the boat were accounted for, but I suddenly remembered there was also a rope at the front of the boat - whipping my head round to check, it had disappeared from the spot in the hull that I’d carefully placed it. Ah. A few minutes later, with Will managing to reach into the water to untangle it, we were back zooming along! The next emergency then struck, I was bursting for a wee. Will had managed to relieve himself off the side of the boat (classy) but I was less sure about the logistics of that for me. A pontoon floating in a quiet patch of the fjord seemed like the best option, so we pulled alongside this, I hopped off and just sort of crouched in the middle of it (even more classy…). In the chaos, we got another rope tangled up in the propellor and almost beached ourselves on the shore. Safely away, we spotted a little island with space to dock up. It was clearly an idyllic spot for picnicing in the summer, evident by the permanent BBQs and firepits dotted around. Oh, and of course there was a proper toilet in a tiny hut. We explored the island, stumbling across some sheep and a rope swing. We ate our lunch (more salami sandwiches) on a picnic bench, watching proudly over our boat. I said I felt like I was in Swallows and Amazons, Will said he hadn’t read that (guess it didn’t make it to Australia, shame). It started to rain, prompting us to pack up. I gave Will an apologetic look and asked if he’d mind waiting just a bit longer in the rain, so I could swim in the fjord. He agreed and I happily ran down to the little beach, stripped naked again and ran into the water. Softly salty, cold and completely incredible. I floated in the light rain, looking out through the descending mist. The final element of my vision, cold fjord swims, was fulfilled. The tiny stones were smooth under my feet as I ran back out, getting dressed and pulling my balaclava on as we rushed back to the boat. Through the rain and mist we sped back along the fjord, past the spot where the engine had cut out and the channel we’d initially aimed for. I crashed into the petrol station (turns out my panic response to close my eyes and accelerate applies to boats as well as cars) and we managed to work out how to fill up the petrol container. The mist made the fjord feel infinitely atmospheric and brooding. Unlike me, Will expertly parked the boat back into its spot in the little harbour.

We warmed up and dried off in the cabin over coffee and chocolate. The weather got even greyer and wetter as we holed ourselves up playing lots of rounds of couples (to Will’s disgust) and monopoly deal (more palatable to Will). As cosy as we were, we managed to convince one another that before it got dark we really should go for a swim in the lake with the platform we had seen from the bus the previous day. So we kitted back up and walked down the road in search of the little platform. Turns out it was in someone’s back garden, but as no one was around (a general theme of the trip, turns out shoulder season is deserted season here) we snuck round. For a final time of the trip, we stripped naked and tried not to slip over on the wet platform. Will dived in twice, then did a back flip and a bomb (all quite brave considering the lack of trunks…). I jumped in once which was quite enough for me. The water was dark, the sky was grey, and the lack of sun made the trees lining the lake appear black. It was incredibly cinematic. It got even more so when we stood on the platform, looking out over the lake, bodies pressed together for warmth, cool rain falling onto our skin. We ran back to the cabin to generate some heat and jumped straight into the shower, temperature turned right up. Blushed from the swim and the hot shower, we lit the fire and cuddled up for dinner and a film.

Monday

Still tied to the bus timetable, we had to leave relatively early. But only after we’d had a final breakfast sat out on the little deck in the crisp morning air. Committing the view to memory. We caught two buses to Jørpeland. After grabbing a coffee in a little shop/cafe, and being allowed to leave our bags there for a few hours, we had a nosy around two impressive boats in the harbour. One was an old fishing boat with two guys on it who happily gave us a full tour. One was a viking boat replica which had sailed to New York a few years previously! We wandered across a metal bridge to an island and discovered a 12-hole frisbee golf course which was free. Deciding it was the perfect way to spend the next hour or two, we picked up two frisbees and set off. It was very cool, the “holes” were spread out across the island, hidden in the trees or the marshes. The weather was back to being clear, the sun out in full force. It quickly became apparent that a straight forward competition would be no fun for either of us (Will was considerably better than me) so we settled on a 20 throw handy cap for me (if I lost by less than 20 throws I’d win). After a heated battle over the last few holes, I emerged victorious having lost by only 19 throws!

We celebrated the end of our trip with a bowl of fish stew at a very lovely restaurant looking over the water then caught the bus back to Stavanger and then onwards to the airport.

Live your life

This was the most incredible weekend getaway and it reminded me that you should really just live your life. Go on the trips that you’ve been softly thinking about, do it with little planning and a lot of faith that it’ll work out (it always does). Fall in love with people that you know are leaving the country/continent/hemisphere with a total disregard of how sad it will make you feel afterwards. Make the memories, tell the stories, overflow with life.

Thank you to Will for reminding me of this. And for everything else. Have an amazing rest of your trip, and continue to overflow with loveliness into everyone’s lives. You are a truly beautiful person.