A little bit of background

Originally, I was planning to zoom through Turkey, heading quickly east to Georgia after Cappadocia. This is because a hike I want to do in Nepal can only be done between March - early December and I was imagining I’d do it in December, making me a little short of time. After thinking about it for a while I decided I was being silly, that I could do the hike in March and still have 5 months in Southeast Asia. This meant I suddenly had several months to fill before then. I decided I’d explore Eastern Turkey a bit. This is when I met Thalia, a lovely Swiss/Australian girl who was in my hostel in Cappadocia. She was also planning to explore the East, and was meeting another friend for this. Our plan was the same so we decided to travel together. There is no backpacking culture in the east, or really any international tourism culture. I now realise that there are three big obstacles to travelling around places like this, and if I hadn’t met Thalia I doubt I’d have been able to see the east as thoroughly as I have. Thalia, Helena and I travelled by bus to several cities in the southeast before being joined by another friend of theirs (they had all met at a workaway earlier in the summer). This was Felix and he had a van, a burnt orange VW T4. We travelled in this for the rest of our time together. There’s a separate post covering the places we saw and all of the travel insights, the rest of this post is about the challenges of travelling away from the backpacking trail.

The three main challenges

1. The expense. While the places themselves are much cheaper than their touristy alternatives, the lack of backpacking infrastructure makes it more costly for a single person. There are no hostels, meaning the only accommodation options are hotels. If travelling alone this makes it way too expensive, but one hotel room split between three is the same as a hostel (we paid on average 10EUR a night each, with breakfast). There are still good bus connections between the cities, but to get from the bus stations to the city centres the only option is a taxi. It’s the same for getting to many of the sights. Again, a taxi for one is out of my budget, but a taxi between three is pretty cheap! I’m not too sure how I’m going to navigate this one as I continue to travel alone in places like this, so stay tuned as I try out couchsurfing etc.!
2. Meeting people. Without hostels I’m not sure how I’d have met anyone. After the often exhausting days in these alien places I’m sure I’d have felt lonely at times. This is going to be an interesting one over the next few months, but for now I’m excited for the opportunity to travel properly alone, something I haven’t felt like I’ve done yet.
3. Feeling safe enough to enjoy local interactions. One of the biggest things I noticed about travelling away from toursity places was the reaction from locals. They stare a lot, and ask a lot of questions and are just generally very interested in what you’re doing there. Often they also want to share things with you - food, tea, advice. Sometimes they even want to show you around. Because of the culture here all of these interactions were with men. Although I’m sure most of these men had only good intentions, if I was alone I would be very wary of these interactions, and would perhaps attract more negative ones. As a three it was fine, and we felt perfectly comfortable in these interactions. I learnt a lot from these, so even when I’m alone I think I’ll be able to enjoy being an attraction for the locals!

The last few weeks have been perfect for me to ease into this off the beaten track style of travelling, and now I’m ready (and excited) to do more of it over the next few months.

1. Last: At the hotel in Crete with friends.
2. Current: On the rooftop of the hotel I’m staying in with Thalia and Helena, in Mardin, Turkey. Helena told me to turn around and I looked to see the full moon rising up over the mountain.
3. Future: In Georgia, maybe in Tbilisi.

A break from the travel posts for a bit of science.

The highlight fresh produce of my trip so far has undoubtedly been figs. Fig season begins in mid-May so basically when my trip started. As I travelled south I came across more and more of them, with them being a familiar sight at any fruit market and a nice surprise on any fig tree. They had so much more flavour than the ones in England, and I became hooked on them. It was a simple pleasure to eat something in season, and watch it slowly disappear from markets as the season ended. (Thank god for dried figs now!) But what I really love about figs is their biology.

Figs are pollinated by fig wasps, with each of the 850+ species of fig having a specific fig wasp. Figs contain both male and female flowers, which are the little stringy bits inside a fig. This makes a fig a flower not a fruit, interestingly. When a fig is ready to be pollinated it releases an aroma which attracts the corresponding fig wasp species. The female wasp, covered in pollen, crawls into the unripe fig through a small hole in the bottom and lays eggs within some of the flowers before dying inside. As it does this the wasp spreads its pollen around, pollinating the female flowers. The flowers that don’t have eggs inside form seeds. As the fig matures, male wasps emerge from their eggs first and find female wasps which they fertilise while still inside their flowers. The males then dig escape tunnels for the females and die. The females escape through the tunnels, taking pollen from the male flowers. The female flies to another fig tree in search of an unripe fig to lay her eggs in, delivering the pollen to the female flowers inside. And so the cycle continues! The reason I learnt about fig wasps during my degree was because of their use as a model organism for parasitoids, which are small insects that live off of bigger insects (like parasites). But the overall fig and fig wasp cycle is more interesting to me now. It’s a beautiful example of coevolution and a symbiotic relationship, which has existed for 90 million years. The fig cannot survive without the fig wasp, and the fig wasp cannot survive without the fig.

FIGure 1. (see what I did there): A poorly drawn diagram by me showing the life cycle.

But don’t freak out, it’s unlikely you’ll get a mouthful of dead wasps when you eat a fig! Commercially grown figs are often still pollinated by fig wasps but the deceased wasps inside are broken down by enzymes within the fig called ficain and used to provide nutrients to the fig plant. The same is true for wild figs. And some commercially grown figs are self-pollinating so no wasps are involved. But after the millions of years that fig wasps and wasps have spent perfecting their partnership it seems a shame to not involve it in growing figs today. If anyone asks “what’s the point in wasps?” you can now answer “figs”.

After a hectic last month, zooming from a holiday with friends to a holiday with my family to Istanbul with my brother (such a hard life I know…), I felt like I needed some downtime in a place with nature. I decided to skip western Turkey, being beached out after spending the whole summer in the heat and by the sea, and caught an overnight bus to the centre of the country, to Cappadocia. It’s a place famous for its hot air balloons, and these are why it was on my radar, but after researching a bit more I found it’s also a place with amazing hikes through strange valleys and with towns cut into rocks. I found a lovely looking hostel in Goreme (the main town in the area) and booked myself in for four nights. Cappadocia gave me everything I had hoped for.

Each morning I woke up at 5:30am and went to watch the balloons fly for sunrise. We went to several different spots over the few days, getting all of the different perspectives. They fly at sunrise because the wind conditions are best. This is an experience that can’t be given justice through pictures or words, but there’s a reason I got up each morning to watch them despite being tired! Afterwards I’d return to the hostel and either sleep for a bit longer, or do some yoga depending on how tired I was, before eating the breakfast provided. During the days I spent a lot of time in cafes catching up on blog writing and general travel planning, either alone or with the wonderful people I met at the hostel here. I did several amazing hikes through Pigeon Valley, Love Valley and Red Rose Valley. They have a lot of valleys here. Pigeon Valley is named after the pigeons the inhabitants would keep, using their poo as fertiliser. Love Valley is named after the penis-shaped rocks that loom over you as you walk (not even making that up!). Red Rose Valley after the red rocks. All had strange rock formations throughout, and evidence of houses that had been cut into the soft rock. Red Rose Valley in particular had several plots of vegetation scattered within, with fruit trees and chilli plants and other crops growing. I visited the open air museum and explored a town made up of dwellings cut into the rock. There were three valleys, but I only explored one, deciding that after one lot of cave houses they all looked the same. Unlike most historic things I go to see what made this one cool was not how ancient it was but how recently it was inhabited, with people living there until 1952.

The hot air balloons were the reason I came to Cappadocia, but are not the reason I loved my time there as much as I did. The reason for this is firstly the people I met. After being off the travelling road for a while I was looking forward to meeting more people, but I couldn’t have wished for a better group to meet. Everyone was so lovely and also inspiring, with such cool lifestyles and insights. Watching the balloons, hiking, working in cafes, and eating dinner would not have been anywhere near as wonderful without them (so thank you Emily, Jeff, Nick and Thalia!). The second reason is the insane geology of the place - the rock formations (called fairy chimneys), the valleys and the houses cut into the rocks. I’ve never seen anything like it before, and doubt I will again. It was like Tatooine from Star Wars. The final reason is the delicious Indian restaurant we ate at, with it being my first curry since leaving England and a meal I had really missed.

Keeping it real: the level of instagrammers at the balloons was insane. We saw people in the most dramatic dresses removing their big coats to flounce around on vintage convertible cars, posing for photos. One site was particularly busy, with off-road vehicles zooming around us and ruining the peace. The road quality was very bad in Cappadocia, perhaps because of how soft the rock is and how sandy it is? Unsure, but the roads were literally rubble or sand. When visiting a carpet shop with decadent displays, famous for being a great spot for pictures, we saw that you had to pay 12$ to take a photo there! We looked around the shop anyway. The owner then became quite rude to Emily when she was haggling for an item. Somehow, thanks to Emily’s insane bargaining and general people skills, this turned into the owner giving us food, inviting us to take photos for free, and giving us a lesson on the carpets. A less perfect experience that became something really special and enjoyable!

After waving my brother off on his bus to the airport I went to meet some girls from our hostel at a Hammam. They had been the previous day but loved it so much they were going again, and invited me to join them. We went to the Mihrimah Sultan Hamam, which is not a touristy one - no english spoken here! I’m so glad I had Juliette and Frances with me because I’d have been completely lost otherwise, having done no research on what to expect or how it all works. The experience was bemusing and strange, but also enjoyable and I left feeling the smoothest I’ve perhaps ever felt. My biggest recommendation for Istanbul would be to end your trip with a visit to a Hammam, washing off any city grime and leaving you refreshed for your flight home.

Here’s a run down of the experience:

I initially entered the men’s area and was chased out, being directed to the female entrance. So men and women are fully separated for the experience! I handed over 300 TL (around £15) and was given a cloth and a pair of sliders. I wore bikini bottoms and wrapped the cloth around me, going downstairs to the baths. What followed was a labyrinth of marble rooms with faucets from which water flowed continuously into basins around the edge of each room, and with marble slabs in the centres. I wandered through these into the main room - distinctive due to it’s huge marble octagon table in the centre and a sauna on one side. It was evident at this point that the etiquette was to hang your cloth up and exist in just bikini bottoms. Always in favour of women-only nude spaces and feeling comfortable in our bodies I was happy to join in. From the sauna I had a view of the main marble table, and could observe the process. It did look rather odd to me, a large turkish woman in a bikini scrubbing down another naked woman lying on a slab. It looked odder still when the woman was made to sit up, with her arm being held up and scrubbed. It reminded me of an elderly person being washed by a carer. After awkwardly waiting, sitting on the low marble bench that ran around the edge of the room, one of the woman doing the scrubbing was free and gestured to me. Guess it was my time. She led me through the maze to one of the smaller rooms. Juliette was already in there and was sat up on her marble slab, covered from head to toe in a dark coffee scrub looking like a mud monster. We smiled at one another before I lay face down on another marble slab as instructed. First the woman scrubbed me vigorously with an exfoliating mitt and some soap. It wasn’t painful at all, and feeling the dead skin and grime come off was quite satisfying. I was impressed with how thorough she was, scrubbing my feet and even between my bum cheeks… She slapped my arse and I took this to mean I should turn over onto my back - it was an interesting signal. The exfoliation continued on my front and she then tapped my shoulder and gestured that I should sit up. In doing so my hand brushed my stomach and I was honestly shocked at how smooth my skin now felt! She continued doing my neck and shoulders, lifting each of my arms to do my armpits. She then did my face, which I wasn’t so happy about seeing as that mitt had just been on my feet and, as I mentioned, between my bum cheeks. Whilst still sitting she filled a bowl with water from the faucet and chucked it over my head, mildly waterboarding me. She then gestured for me to stand and continued using the bowl to wash off the soap and the disgusting amount of grey worms of dead skin and dirt that were left on my body after the exfoliation. It really looked like I hadn’t properly washed in several months, which isn’t too far from the truth I suppose. Again being very thorough, she pulled my bikini bottoms out from my body to chuck water down my bum. I lay back on the slab for round two: the coffee scrub. It smelt amazing and the experience was more gentle than the first round. The whole process was repeated with this, including the slap on the arse signal and mild waterboarding. The final round was a soapy massage. My track record with massages hasn’t been great and this wasn’t much better, with her really going to town on my dodgy shoulder which was quite painful. But after months of uncomfortable hostel beds and long bus journeys it was definitely needed. I’d say I was shocked at how strong she was as she rolled her arms up and down my back, but I wasn’t. She looked very strong! Just when I thought the experience was over she applied a mud mask to my face. That really was the end, and I returned to the main room feeling incredibly smooth and slightly violated.

Istanbul was a city I already had a perception of before visiting: that it was unbelievably busy and loud and chaotic. This was reinforced with opinions of many other travellers I’d spoken to, especially women who often had negative experiences to share. I was glad to therefore be travelling with my brother for this part! The Istanbul I experienced completely shocked me. It wasn’t at all like this intense mess I’d imagined. It was peaceful. It was busy in places sure, but not noticeably busier than other major European cities. Certain areas were so trendy, filled with chic cafes, homemade design shops and vintage clothing stores (Kadikoy in particular, on the Asian side). We were constantly finding ourselves in manicured squares with water features. We stayed in Karakoy on the European side, which is the more commercial district right by Galata tower. This was a fun contrast, the street our hostel was on was filled with repair shops which sold random parts for random items, but just one street over it was all fancy cafes and gift shops. I loved how the two sides of Istanbul - touristy and commercial - seamlessly alternated. Of course the more famous ‘two sides’ are the European and the Asian sides. After listening to some podcasts on the history of Istanbul I want to note that while Istanbul is the gateway to the East for me, and this is how it’s perceived by many Westerners, historically it’s the other way around. Ancient history played out in the East, and Istanbul was the gateway to the West for them. The two sides were not particularly distinct, at least not more so than any of the neighbourhoods were. We spent most of our time on the European side, but if I were to ever live in Istanbul (unlikely, it’s a bit too big and urban for me) it would be in Kadikoy on the Asian side.

It was truly wonderful to spend my time in Istanbul with my brother. We have never travelled alone together before, nor spent so much time just the two of us. I was a bit apprehensive about it, with him being my younger brother I wasn’t looking forward to having to look after him and be responsible for us both. I didn’t give him enough credit, perhaps forgetting he is 21 years old now. He was perfectly responsible and helped out a lot. It was a real delight to travel with him and spend so much time together - if only to have a willing participant in my endless games of cards!

What we did

1. Sight seeing. Unsurprisingly, most of our time was spent visiting the major sights. First up was the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, which sit facing one another on opposite sides of Sultanahmet Square, like the two queens on a chessboard. The Blue Mosque was the first mosque Harvey and I had ever visited, taking off our shoes as instructed and with me wearing a headscarf. It was under heavy construction, so we could only really see the ceiling. The Hagia Sophia was originally a church then a mosque then a museum and, as of 2020, then a mosque again. Entrance to the mosque was free but there was a huge queue. Once inside it was nice to actually get to see the decorations unlike in the Blue Mosque. We sat on the carpet and took it all in. For me, as a non-religious person, it felt very similar to a cathedral. A short walk away was the Topkapi Palace so we did this next. It included waiting in three long queues, one for security to enter, one to buy our tickets, and one to collect the free audioguide. This was both mine and my brother’s favourite sight. We were amazed at how beautiful it was. It had three courtyards, with large buildings framing them and little ones spattered within. The gardens were wonderful, filled with flowers and water features. The tiling was beautiful, as were the columns and the huge low sofa style seats inside. The Ottoman influence was clear, and it was beautiful to see. The audioguide was also pretty good. Next up was the Grand Bazaar. Even this was less busy than I’d imagined. It was more similar to a covered market you’d find in England than I thought it would be. We saw a lot of tea sets and I found one I really liked, but as it was £80 for a set for two I decided to pass. The shops were very cool, especially the ones selling traditional clothing. It was huge, and we could’ve spent all day wandering around but I think Harvey would’ve murdered me if we did! All I ended up buying was a headscarf, ready to wear as I head to the more conservative East Turkey and beyond. The Spice Bazaar is very close by so we traversed the market streets which spill out of the Grand Bazaar to visit it. This was much smaller, and a lot more colourful. The shops sold spices, tea leaves and turkish sweets (turkish delight and baklava). I ate a huge amount of turkish delight in trying to decide which flavours to buy and felt quite sick by the time we left, but happy with my choices of a pistachio lokum (the roll form of turkish delight) and simple rose.
2. Bosphorus cruise. Following in the footsteps of old school travellers to Istanbul, we rode the ferry all the way up the Bosphorus Strait to the last town before the Black Sea, Anadolu Kavağı. It took 1.5 hours and the return ticket cost 65TL (around £3). We enjoyed relaxing on the boat, watching Istanbul sail past. I had a Mr Bean moment when I got out my ticket to have a look at the route and forgot I also had Harv’s; it flew out of my purse in the wind, being carried through the bars in the railing and into the water. Oops. We arrived at the last town before the Black Sea, where we had 2.5 hours to explore before getting the boat back. We walked up to the castle on the hill, making a note of the military zone. It had a nice view of the Black sea but that was about it. We walked back to the main town, I thought it was very strange. Harv liked it, said it reminded him of Porlock Weir. We had balik ekmeks for lunch - fish sandwiches. I had a calamari one because the sample fish the guy gave us freaked me out, but Harv’s fish sandwich was much better than mine. Getting back on the boat the ticket guy either believed my sad tale of my ticket blowing away or just didn’t care, either way he let me on without it. It was a fun way to spend a day, and we had enough days to do it and not miss out on other things, but I’m not sure I’d recommend it too highly.
3. Checked out the arts scene in a slightly different way. Harv isn’t into art galleries so instead of visiting these we went to an old cinema to watch a turkish film (with english subtitles). It was quite odd but I enjoyed it. Harv fell asleep so I think he might’ve enjoyed it less. Annoyingly, we weren’t in the cool screening room with the original curved roof (see a picture below) but I was able to stick my head in to see it. We also spent one evening at a Jazz bar, sipping on whiskey sours and appreciating the live music.
4. Enjoyed the cafes and played cards. As with any city visit, a lot of the time was spent sat in cafes resting our feet or planning our next move. Here we enjoyed really good coffee (not turkish coffee…) or herbal teas, and the abundance of sweet treats. Harv especially enjoyed the cheesecakes. We played a lot of cards throughout the trip, often at said cafes.
5. Turkish bath. After Harv left I visited a Hammam, see the post on this to read about the experience!

Foood

We ate very well in Istanbul. We tried most of the traditional foods. The turkish breakfast impressed me, with it being comprised of lots of little bits which were fun to try. The doner we had was a bit disappointing, not tasting much different to the ones we’d eaten in England. I was more impressed by the dürüm, which was kebab meat in a wrap. Up until this point I thought I didn’t like baklava, finding it much too sweet and soggy. But here I really enjoyed it, finding it more nutty and way less sweet and soggy. The real star was a restaurant rather than a dish however. For the first time in my trip I ate at the same restaurant twice. It was a small place in Karakoy which served turkish food with a bit of a twist. The ambience was perfect - cool interior with soft jazz playing. On our first visit we had homemade ginger beer and delicious mains, followed by delicious desserts. By the end of the meal we had already decided to go back there the following evening. It’s called Karaköy Gümrük, definitely check it out if you’re ever in Istanbul. I also had to try a turkish burek (spelt borek here), and it was very good, up there as one of the better ones I’ve eaten.

Leaving Istanbul

We spent 4 nights in Istanbul, and there was a lot more to see than we could ever cover in that time. But for me, 4 nights was enough. I’m not a big city person and this is a very big city. As surprisingly un-busy as I found it, it was still busy. It was also quite dirty. So I watched the sunset on my last evening and found myself ready to leave. Back travelling alone again after being with friends and family for the last few weeks. As a reminder that travelling isn’t all easy I managed to get completely lost trying to catch the metro to the bus station. The bus station itself isn’t centralised so there’s no information board, instead it’s all private companies with their own offices and platforms. I couldn’t find my bus or the company’s office at all, despite going to the coordinates they’d sent me with my ticket. The 45 minutes buffer time I’d given was dwindling away. No one seemed to be able to help me and I was getting a little stressed. Eventually I found a contact number and sent a whatsapp message to ask for help, with them giving me the correct location and I was able to find the bus with time to spare. The bus was very fancy, and during the overnight journey I was served tea and given a snack. I hope all buses in Turkey are the same!

After Athens I spent a further 2.5 weeks in Greece. I’ve been a bit lax on including logistic details recently, so just to remind you of the realities of travelling over land I’ve included all the transport this time!

Week 1 - Crete

I took an overnight ferry from Piraeus (the port part of Athens) to Heraklion, Crete. It was surprisingly difficult to find the ferry at the huge port, with no information signs to be seen. I initially boarded the wrong one, but ended up securing a nice sofa seat on the correct one. I lay out my sleeping bag and got myself ready for bed, only to be told by a staff member that I couldn’t sleep until 11pm (it was currently 9pm). I found that very odd but was happy to watch some netflix until 11, before having a mildly uncomfortable night’s sleep. We arrived into Heraklion for 7am and I had all morning to kill so slowly walked in the direction of the bus station. Just up the road I saw the golden arches of a Mcdonald’s and realised that a maccies breakfast is exactly what I fancied! The bright 24/7 sign laughed down at me when I realised it was closed. But seeing as I really did have all morning with nothing to do, I decided to sit outside and read my book until it opened. 1.5 hours later, having finished my book, it finally opened. Very excited to eat the breakfast I’d been thinking about for so long it was a great disappointment to see that they were not offering a breakfast menu. With too much time invested in the venture I begrudgingly ordered a burger and a coffee and ate it. At least there was good wifi and I could work on some blog posts!

Now the reason I was in Crete was to meet friends from home for their annual holiday get together. They weren’t arriving until 2am the next morning so I was the first one to get to the hotel. I’ve stayed in some hostels which have left a lot to desire, this hotel was cut from the same cloth. Luckily I was there to spend time with friends rather than have a luxury experience! Going down in the evening to eat dinner at the all inclusive buffet was the first time on the trip I’ve felt self-conscious eating alone. In the middle of the night I woke to Sam arriving into my room, I gave him a sleepy hug and my time alone ended for a bit. We spent the next week doing all sorts of holiday activities - relaxing by the pool, going to a waterpark (my personal highlight surprisingly), hiring a car and exploring the island, playing lots of cards, spending time at the beach. It was so wonderful to see friends and spend time with them all. I wasn’t feeling homesick, but this banished any potential homesickness!

One notable event was the Queen’s death. The news came in just as we’d finished eating dinner. We crowded into the largest one of our rooms and watched the BBC news broadcast on the tiny TV. An interesting place to have been for the moment! The following day a slightly less notable event took place - my birthday! It was lovely to spend it with friends, with us going to the waterpark and out for a nice dinner and drinks.

At the end of the week I said my goodbyes to everyone and returned to Heraklion to get the overnight ferry back to Athens. Here it sunk in that I likely won’t see my friends until next July. Feeling quite sad I watched some uplifting tv to cheer me up and then made a bed out of two chairs (no sofas on this ferry).

The middle bit - Meteora

The ferry arrived late into Athens which meant I missed the direct train to my next location, Kalambaka. Once at the main train station I worked out my new route. It was only two trains so not too bad! This was my first train journey since travelling from Mostar to Sarajevo in Bosnia in June, and I enjoyed it hugely. The first train was late so we missed the connecting train, but luckily there was another train that arrived shortly after we did. Arriving in Kalambaka I immediately saw the reason I’d come here - the huge rock columns rising out of nowhere, with tiny monasteries perched on top of them. The rocks and monasteries are known as Meteora.

I stayed here for 2 nights, walking up to the monasteries to watch the sunset and hitchhiking back down to the town both nights (my first experience of hitchhiking!). It was so peaceful and like nothing I’d ever seen before. On my full day I hiked the monasteries with Pjotr, a dutch guy from the hostel. We walked to all six in the area, taking in all of the scenic points en route. We went into one monastery and one nunnery - St Stephens and Varlaam. Men had to wear long trousers and women long skirts to enter. They were both beautiful and interesting, with little museums. But the real treasure was the views. The huge columns of rock with the little monasteries stacked on top. The vibrant green forests laying in between.

There was a Lidl in Kalambaka which excited me a bit too much, and I enjoyed cooking a delicious and healthy dinner with Pjotr. It had been too long since I’d cooked, and I do really miss it.

Week 2 - Corfu

Next stop on my Greece trip was Corfu, to meet my family! I caught a bus to Ioannina which took 2.5 hours, then immediately a bus to Igoumenitsa. I caught a ferry to Corfu and walked to the airport, waiting for my family to land. Sadly, their flight was delayed by several hours (another reason to favour land travel!). Finally they arrived, and it was so wonderful to see them! It had been just over 4 months, but it felt like we had a lot to catch up on and it was very comforting to see them. We got our transfer to the airbnb and hurried out to eat before the restaurants closed.

Our villa was beautiful, perched up the hill with sea views to be enjoyed from the terrace which included a pool. This week was spent exploring nearby towns by bus, including the Durrells house, spending time on the beach, snorkelling, enjoying good food, chilling by the pool and lots more cards. My highlight was hiring a boat and speeding around the north east coast, stopping at tranquil coves to swim and snorkel, and learning how to dive in from the boat (thanks Dad!).

Spending time with my family was so restful and, like the time spent with friends, meant any potential homesickness was gone. Before leaving I washed all of my clothes, charged up all of my devices and replenished my toiletries. Both me and my backpack were refreshed and it felt like I was starting out fresh, rather than being 4.5 months in.

Onwards - Thessaloniki

My brother, Harvey, was joining me for Istanbul so we waved goodbye to our parents together as we got the bus to Corfu town. Here we caught a direct bus all the way to Thessaloniki, with it taking 6 hours. We got off the bus after a short time to get onto the ferry, and re-boarded back on the mainland. We spent one night in Thessaloniki, doing a whirlwind tour of the city which we thought was nice but nothing too special. It was a day of freebies: all of the historical sights were free to enter on that day for some reason, we accidentally went to a university freshers’ fair and got a free water bottle, we went on a free boat ride around the gulf. But some things really are too good to be true, and the boat ride was not really free, with us having to buy a drink onboard which cost an insane amount - 9EUR for a large beer! The main stand out for me was the food - all of our meals here were excellent.

From Thessaloniki we got an overnight bus to Istanbul. This was my least favourite overnight bus so far. It was way too hot and the lady sat behind me had stacks of bangles from wrist to elbow on both arms that made the most irritating noise when she moved her arms, which she seemed to do the entire journey. We had to wait a while at the border, being forced to go into a duty free lounge which was strange. The bus arrived 1.5 hours early, which is usually a great thing but when it means you arrive at 5:30am rather than 7am and with 1.5 hours less sleep, it’s less fun.

Overall

Greece was a weird one, it was a time spent seeing friends and family more than travelling. I didn’t fall in love with the country, a part from Athens. I was surprised at how much I loved the food, and how varied Greek cuisine is. An absolute stand-out dish was the lamb Kleftiko. It was one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten. I ate three in my time in Greece, and they were all quite different with one important similarity - they were full of the same amazing flavour and were truly delicious. I will definitely be attempting to cook my own version at home. I also enjoyed the hospitality in Greece, with it being common to receive a free sweet treat after a meal, or a drink, or a platter of fruit.

The time has come to head East, and with it the summer heat will end. Very luckily, my family has come out to meet me in Corfu and was able to bring me some items from home to revamp my packing from ‘European summer’ to ‘Central Asian winter’. So, as a break from the travel posts, here’s a packing update and discussion - what’s being swapped in, items I’ve used all the time and value, and ones that I’ve already ditched. This is probably quite a boring post for most, so feel free to skip. I weirdly enjoy reading dull, routine narratives so this is me indulging myself.

General items I’ve loved or hated

I have a lot of ‘useful’ items in my bag, but let’s assess how useful they’ve really been…

Very useful:

1. Two microfibre towels. Having one that’s reserved for showering only was such a good decision, as my beach/yoga mat/picnic blanket one does get very gross.
2. Headphones and earphones. Goes without saying, of course it was worthwhile to bring my big silencing headphones even if I only really use them on buses and occasionally in the evenings in hostels.
3. Sleeping bag. I really debated bringing this but the juries in and I’m glad I did. I’ve only used it a handful of times (camping on the beach, an overnight ferry, staying with friends in England before I left) but it’s been essential in those moments. I also use it as a pillow on overnight buses.
4. Uniqlo little shoulder bag. Literally use it everyday. Also get a lot of compliments on it so that’s always nice. It looks small but I’ve been able to fit a beach towel, my bikini, swimming bottle, kindle, purse, phone, earphones, lipbalm etc. all in it for a compact beach day.
5. Folding shopping bag. Has come in handy for both shopping and beach days which require more than I can fit in my small bag but less than in my rucksack.
6. Travel wash. No debate here, was always going to be washing underwear in hostel sinks and that’s exactly what I’ve been doing.
7. Reusable sandwich bag. So useful for packed lunches, or storing food items like homemade cookies! Have used it a lot.
8. Then there are the items that were never in question (multiple bank cards, padlocks, ear plugs and eye mask etc.).

Not really used but will keep for now:

1. Mini tripod. Have used it maybe twice? Turns out I’m always doing stuff with people and they’re happy to take photos of me!
2. Travel line. Used it once and lost it. Replaced it with a piece of string and not used it since. But that’s because it’s been summer so I’ve been able to leave stuff outside to dry. Although, thinking about it, I often hang up my underwear around my dorm bed and will likely continue doing that. It takes up 0 space so will keep anyway.
3. Waterproof phone cover. I don’t trust that it’s actually waterproof. Useful for boat trips though.

Sent home/gave away:

1. Cap. Cut my hair and suddenly the back of my neck was exposed to the sun, meaning a larger rimmed hat was required, but wasn’t the cap’s fault! Gave my cap to a girl in Brac, Croatia.
2. Wooly hat. Used it once in Prague but it was a bit silly to pack it. I’ve sent one parcel home so far (from Slovenia) and it was in that. It has now returned to the bag however!
3. Denim jacket. Took up too much space and was heavy, realised I wasn’t going to be wearing it for months and it wasn’t that practical when it actually gets cold. Sent home.
4. Jeans. Same as denim jacket, but knew my family could bring them back out ready for colder months.
5. Hiking shorts/trousers. Realised I could hike in my normal shorts and I didn’t enjoy wearing these casually, gave them to a charity shop in Lljubljana.

New useful items
During the last few months travelling I’ve mulled over potentially useful items to add for the next bit of the journey and three of these made the cut.

1. A filtration water bottle. It was super expensive so I took my time to decide if it was actually necessary but ultimately decided that it was. It filters any water (apart from seawater) to make it drinkable. This means when the tap water isn’t drinkable (like in South East Asia and I’m guessing central Asia too) I’ll still be able to drink it and won’t have to buy a ton of bottled water. The main reason for purchasing it is to reduce my plastic consumption in these countries, and it will likely be more convenient and will come in handy when hiking etc. too!
2. Healthy gut bacteria tablets to take daily. After the decimating effect of the stomach bug I had in Albania, my microbiome seems to need some help to recover (read: my stomach hasn’t been quite right since). Hopefully these will also help me avoid a similar situation again, or at least reduce the impact of it.
3. Immodium tablets. If the above doesn’t fight off a stomach issue in the future (I’m not too hopeful to be honest) I thought it wise to have some emergency immodium!

Capsule wardrobe update

My few items of clothing changed quite a lot from my original packing to now. After getting rid of my jeans and jacket I had space to introduce a few more summery pieces (a short skirt from a thrift shop in Lljubljana, a long skirt from a charity shop in Mostar, a dress from a boutique in Lljubljana, some more crop tops). I also got bored of items so when I saw friends in Montenegro in August I had them bring me different items and sent old ones home with them. I did the same when I saw more friends in Crete in September. (Thanks again lovely people that brought me out items!) Overall, I wished I packed ‘nicer’ clothes rather than strictly practical ones. But I also enjoyed shopping for nicer items here, and wasn’t too attached to the ones I had meaning I was okay with donating them to charity shops/hostel swap rails.

But now we’re doing a big overhaul. So here’s the new wardrobe:

Bit of a nightmare with the boots, but as always it worked out fine. Before leaving home my walking boots died and I didn’t have time to buy and break in a new pair. I decided to order a pair of casual walking boots and have my family bring them out, and hope they fit. They did fit! But they immediately broke, with one of the shoelace holders breaking off… Turns out this was easily fixed, and luckily Greece is a country where repairing things is the norm, so it was easy to track down a shoe repair shop and they made quick work of it. I also got a full refund on the boots, so all in all it worked out very well!

After having spent around three months in the Balkans I’d say I’m familiar with most of their food. It’s pastry and meat based, with a lot of stuffed vegetables. White cheese is featured heavily, even in their salads, like the shopska salad. A lot of the food remained constant - bureks always available from bakeries, little doughnuts for breakfast at anywhere serving traditional food, plain meat patties always on the menu, fig jam and ajvar always ready to be spread on bread. But something I’ve enjoyed is watching how it slightly varies between countries, with each one having its own spin on dishes. I found that Albania had region specific dishes in a way that I didn’t see in the other countries, for example I had the Berati steak in Berat, and the Himare salad in, you guessed it, Himare. Below is a collection of photos of Balkan food and an in depth look on Burek.

Burek

This is a filo pastry pie. It’s not exclusive to the Balkans, being eaten in Israel, Northern Africa and Armenia to name some others. It originated in the Ottoman empire, so spread into the Balkans with the Ottoman rule in the 14th century. In the Balkans you will find it filled with either white cheese, spinach or meat. It’s eaten for breakfast, lunch or as a snack. You can purchase one from any bakery, for around 1.50/2 EUR. It’s served with a yogurt to drink alongside. It seems to come in two styles: i) one huge pie is cooked and you can buy a slice of this, or ii) as an individual pie. I prefer the huge pie version, I felt like you got a better filling to pastry ratio that way. I definitely favoured the meat burek, with the filling reminding me of a Cornish pasty, and therefore all of the warm home feelings associated with it. The spinach comes in second for me, with the cheese being a bit too much - too salty, too dense and a bit sickly. The meat one with the yogurt to wash it down really is a high class lunch (but will leave you desperate for some fruit or vegetables). It has a lot of cultural significance and is an icon of the Balkans, but not always in a positive way. Slovenia, a country that struggles with its identity as Balkan or Western European, shunned the burek, seeing it as a symbol of the ‘undeveloped Balkans, freighted with the metageographical baggage’ of the region (quoted from the book Everyday life in the Balkans, chapter titled ‘Burek, Da!’). The burek came to Slovenia with the formation of Yugoslavia, so perhaps the dislike towards it can be understood in that context. It shows one underlying current in Yugoslavia: the friction between the more developed and less developed countries. Taking a step back from Yugoslav politics and looking at the Balkans as a whole, I feel the burek also illustrates another reoccurring theme: the struggle between nationalism and homogeneous culture. The burek is found in all of the Balkan countries, but each claims ownership of it. When I was googling recipes for burek I found them titled ‘Croatian burek’, ‘Albanian burek’, ‘Bosnian pita’ etc. Rather than embracing the shared food, and their shared history, the nations either ignore it or are angered by it. Obviously there are reasons for this, the Balkan wars were recent and there is a long history of aggression between the nations (to quote a Macedonian man “We are brothers with our neighbouring countries, not friends. That means we like to fight.”). The shared burek speaks to their shared history, which may not be pleasant to remember.

Burek is one of the foods that I’ll definitely think back to, and likely crave. But it’s the only Balkan food that I feel that way towards! My old local pub in London recently had a burek pop-up from Mystic Borek, so I was happy to learn it’s possible to get burek in London. The lady behind it doesn’t have a permanent restaurant but you can order bureks from her, or just keep an eye out for her next pop-up at https://www.mysticborek.com/ (they look insane and I absolutely will be a customer once I’m back in London).

A burek recipe to try (more for my own use when I’m back home!): https://www.all-thats-jas.com/burek-meat-pie/

The main thing I loved about Balkan food wasn’t the food itself (it really did lack vegetables and was always heavy and salty) but becoming so familiar with it. Obviously I’m not an expert, but I could pick up a menu and explain to you what the majority, if not all, of the items are. I’ve eaten the traditional breakfasts, the traditional lunches, the traditional pastries in the traditional way, and all of the traditional meals for dinner. And perhaps I’m being harsh in saying it’s all heavy and salty, it is also often delicious, warming and made with passion. It was very enjoyable to eat. But it’s not the sort of food I personally enjoy eating all of the time!

Would cook at home

1. Burek
2. Shopska salad
3. Vegetable or lamb soup/stew
4. Tavce Gravce, bean stew

Full Moon Check-in

1. Last: On the pier in Kotor.
2. Current: Having a drink at the hotel in Crete, Greece with friends from home. Louis pointed out the moon to me. It was the day after my 24th birthday.
3. Future: Somewhere in Turkey, probably in Cappadocia or in the East.