A fleeting but full visit
I didn’t want to leave Albania, and going to Athens felt almost like a chore. I was having a wonderful time bumbling around Albania and I wasn’t ready to move on yet. And the 9 hour bus journey starting at 5:30am didn’t help. Athens wasn’t somewhere that I actively wanted to visit, it was just where I was catching the ferry to Crete from. The bus was long and busy and hot. Stepping off in Athens my first impression was the smell of urine. I walked to the hostel and with each 100 metres I woke up from my bus stupor and the warmth of Athens crept in. After showering and freshening up in the hostel I felt excited to go and explore. I walked down the street to the centre, and audibly said “oh shit” as the buildings opened up into Monastiraki square, and my view was suddenly filled with the Acropolis on the rocky hill, and ancient buildings in between. It came out of nowhere and I wasn’t expecting it. It was breathtaking. Strolling around Athens I realised how different the Balkans felt to Western Europe, with Athens having the familiarity that they didn’t. The sun was starting to set and I marched up to Lycabettus Hill to watch it. I was cutting it very tight so basically had to run up the hill. I was very sweaty. Lots of people had stopped on the path before the top, which I thought was strange and did make me think it means the top must be very crowded. This assumption was right! It was humorously busy at the top, and people clapped when the sun set. I stayed up there until it started to get dark, wanting to see the Acropolis lit up. I went out for dinner alone that evening, the first time in a while! I had the most incredible beet salad, with whipped cheese and candied walnuts. When it was served to me I was immediately hit by the smell - fresh mint sprinkled across the top. The candied walnuts were so delicately flavoured. There was the rich taste of EVOO beneath the acidity of the vinegar dressing. I was working on my Balkan food blog post at the time, and it did put it in perspective a bit…
After one evening in Athens I had decided that it was somewhere I will definitely be coming back to. I can picture myself remote working from here for a week or so, soaking up the heat and the history before and after work. Not sure if that’s actually an option for me, but the idea kept me happy. People had told me that you only needed one or two nights in Athens, and that might be true if you just want to tick off the sights, but Athens seems to me to be a city that you could spend a week in without getting bored. There’s not a lot to see, but there’s a lot to experience. Because I knew I’d be coming back, I didn’t worry about seeing everything. I spent most of my time wandering around and looking everywhere. I spent 30 minutes laying on a marble bench on top of the Pnyx, soaking up the sun with a view of the Acropolis. I really didn’t rush around! I specifically decided not to enter the Acropolis or the ancient sights. It costs 30EUR (free if you’re under 25 and from an EU country, thanks again brexit…) but gives you access to all of the sights for 5 days. I didn’t have time to properly make use of this, and wasn’t in the mood to speed around them, opting to save them for my next visit. I did do the walking tour of course. It wasn’t the most history heavy tour, but I enjoyed the slow pace and friendly atmosphere the tour guide created.
Alongside the pockets of ancient history, Athens had so many beautiful cafes and restaurants. In the centre the streets were beautiful, especially just under the Acropolis. Further out the streets were ugly and filled with unassuming looking cafes, bakeries and taverns. It was down these streets, in the pouring rain, that I searched for the place serving the reportedly best greek yogurt. It came out as a block, almost like feta, drenched in honey and covered in chopped walnuts. It was utterly delicious. The yogurt itself was creamy with such a distinct bitter taste, but not overpoweringly so. The honey made it the perfect level of sweet. The walnuts added a crunch. Down a different but equally dodgy looking street, I found a falafel bar and enjoyed the best falafels I have ever eaten. Their outside perfectly crunchy, their inside soft and fluffy and heavenly spiced. And the guy gave me a plate of hummus for free! I visited a little bakery and the smell of freshly baked something with cinnamon was so welcoming. I bought a selection of biscuits for my ferry journey, and a slice of pistachio cake. All were delicious, and shockingly cheap.
I don’t know why I loved Athens so much. Maybe because I had no expectations and no idea of what it was like. I guess because I’d imagined the ancient stuff to be separate from the city, rather than embedded throughout in a fluid way. As I’m travelling I’m becoming more sure of my gut feelings, and liking Athens is one of those. It’s not very conducive to blog writing though, as it’s hard to verbalise a gut feeling. When I thought about it whilst looking over the whole city from the Pnyx, the image of the heat baking the history into the streets, warming the air from below rather than above, came to mind.